Don’t dismiss Le Havre as just a ferry destination! After heavy bombing in the Second World War, Normandy’s largest city rebuilt itself with a modernist twist, leading it to be listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2005.
The Dock Area
Its once run-down dock area, Les Docks Vauban, is now a hub for retail, arts and restaurants. La Taverne Paillette is a brasserie serving generous portions of mussels and seafood, or, as you’re in Normandy, why not try some Tripes à la Normande? For a snack, join the clientèle of the Crêperie Soizic – an establishment overflowing with locals is always a good pointer to quality.
The reasonably priced Le Lyonnais is described as having a pub atmosphere, so British visitors might feel at home. Traditionally furnished but with fresh flowers on every table to welcome you, it gets busy, so go early if you haven’t booked.
Food for Art Lovers
The city continues its love affair with modernism in the Musée d’Art Moderne André Malraux, home to impressionist and modern art, including local artists Eugène Boudin and Fauvist Raoul Dufy.
If the art on offer has knocked you sideways, relax in the gallery’s cafeteria where you can sample classic dishes while taking in the stunning harbour views. Or head for the romantic low-beamed space of La Petite Auberge, a former post house with a restored Norman façade, to choose from a varied menu of traditional seafood or meat.
Around the Port
Cruise companies, such as Royal Caribbean Cruises, use Le Havre as a port-of-entry for Paris, so the city always has plenty of visitors passing through. Mini cruises are ideal for this, but do spend some time at your arrival point before moving on to “le weekend” in France’s capital.
Close to the port and the fish market, L’Orchidée is guaranteed to serve you the freshest seafood. The restaurant takes pride in the presentation of its dishes, like the home made fish terrine, or if you prefer meat, the breast of duck with three-pepper sauce.
Michelin Stars
Jean-Luc Tartarin has two Michelin stars, and is described by the Michelin Guide in a very Gallic way as “beautiful and passionate cuisine with harmonious flavours and precise cooking”. The rest of the best includes Le Wilson, particularly the warm apple pie and the cheerful owners, while a diner’s review describes it as “agréable”.
International Cuisine
If, incredibly, you fancy a change from traditional French cooking, the Italian pizzeria, La Case à Café, produces pizzas to die for. Or retain a French link with cheap but delicious Vietnamese fare at the Dai Duong Restaurant, with the Won Ton soup particularly recommended. Staying with an oriental theme, shushi enthusiasts should check out the simply decorated Yamato for Japanese specialities.
Consult Le Havre’s office de tourisme for advice on more restaurants and general information, or turn to Trip Advisor for honest customer reviews and useful tips. Bon appetit!
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